Sunday, January 10, 2010

A Tale of Two Cities: Lijiang (丽江) vs. Dali (大理)




There’s an old, enduring, and interminable debate between backpackers in Yunnan, China. Which town is better: Dali or Lijiang?

On the surface, they seem pretty similar. Both are popular destinations for backpackers and hikers making their way to Tiger Leaping Gorge in the north. Both have acquired a robust tourist industry, complete with fake Chinese souvenir stalls and persistent locals promising to take you to all of the city’s attractions…for a hefty price. Both have a self-proclaimed, “charming ancient city” that represents the “real China of yesteryear.”

Yet, travelers who’ve stayed in both towns fiercely maintain that one is superior to the other in terms of authenticity and appeal.

Now, that I’ve been to both, I must admit that I’ve become a loyal member of “Club Dali.” Yes, I am publicly stating here that Dali is a superior place to Lijiang. While Lijiang’s “ancient city” seemed to me more like a contrived replication of old China with its unending rows of souvenir stalls and harried crowds of Chinese tour groups, Dali seemed like a real Chinese town that happened to have a booming tourist industry. Add to this the fact that Dali boasted absurdly cheap meals, bountiful WiFi, and the nicest hostel I’ve ever seen, and I was sold.

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